Re: How Would You Design question

On a similar note,

I made a saw many years ago that had multiple blades. A 2x4 was
passed through it and it sliced and diced to make 1/4 inch wide
strips. They were then glued them to make curved laminated beams.

I do not know if you have multiple parts of one size, but such a set-
up would allow you to pass a single piece, cut all your parts and
only need a fence.

Kind of eleminates the whole CNC thing, but may be effective.

Dave

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "Marcus & Eva" <implmex@a...> wrote:
> Hi Tim:
> You will probably need to stabilize the material on both sides
of the
> cut if you want to hold 0.0025"
> Best way I can think of for the free strip is a vacuum fence.
> If you just let it hang out in space the saw will recut it every
time it
> curls or flops around.
> You'll never hold tolerance without the vacuum fence.
> So long as you can adjust it dead nuts parallel and exactly to
width, you
> may not even need anything more elaborate than just the fence.
> It's worth a try anyway ( cheapest part of the whole rig, assuming
you've
> got a decent saw and a top quality planer blade.)
> If you want to get fancy, then you can set up a panel sawing frame
to run in
> the miter fence slots, and top clamp the stock.
> You still need the vacuum fence though (but it becomes part of the
sliding
> frame.)
> Cheers
>
> Marcus
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tim Goldstein" <timg@k...>
> To: <CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y...>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 7:16 PM
> Subject: RE: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: How Would You Design question
>
>
> > Lots of considerations in this besides the ease of cutting. A
knife edge
> > band saw will cause crushing of the wood towards the surface and
drive
> > up the density while reducing the stiffness. There is also the
problem
> > that a band saw blade wanders and would make the thickness
inconsistent.
> > Reducing the waste is not a concern. Turning 50% of the raw stock
to
> > dust is OK if the resulting product is very smooth and
consistent, not
> > sawn, and has the absolute minimum fiber damage on the surface.
From all
> > the ways of cutting I have tried using a circular saw blade
produces the
> > proper product. You have to take off your engineering hats on
this part
> > and accept that marketing says it has to be cut that way. Not put
the
> > engineer hat back on to work on the design for this.
> >
> > I am leaning to using a timing belt to drive the feed for the
cutting
> > and a lead screw on the advance feed. I am thinking that the best
way to
> > avoid lash on the advance feed it to spring load it to apply
pressure
> > against the screw. This avoids the need to use zero backlash type
> > systems and should work fine as there is no load or pulling in
this
> > direction. The part I am still hung up on is how to arrange the
length
> > feed so that the + - .0025" thickness requirement can be met
without
> > building a monstrosity. Something like the 80/20 stock is
appealing, but
> > I doubt that it can be consistent down the length. I like the
idea that
> > someone threw out to have a stop that controls the cut thickness
as the
> > precision part than just becomes the slide against that.
> >
> > Tim
> > [Denver, CO]