Re: I want to upgrade to servors

Hello,

No, these(at the link) are not pancake style motors. In fact, they
appear to be the newer hybrid "square" style with even better magnets
than the older "round" style hybrid type.

So let's look into the other questions I asked?

Ballendo



--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "luisguillermo98" <luisguillermo98@y...>
wrote:

> No; I do not think they are pancake.. the ones I have are 1.8

degrees

> 4 leads .. the model are lh2331-m200 and can be found at
> http://www.eadmotors.com/pdf/RotarySize23HTTable.pdf
> Let me know if they are the pancake..
>
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "ballendo" <ballendo@y...> wrote:
> > Luis,
> >
> > What you are calling "locking up" is usually called "stalling".
> This
> > happens when the rotor in the motor gets out of sync with the
> > incoming pulse train. There are a number of reasons that this can
> > happen...
> >
> > Are your motors the "pancake" style with 15 degrees per step?

These

> > look like they are made out of stamped sheetmetal, and are bigger
> > around (diameter) than they are long/tall?
> >
> > It has been awhile since I looked at Eastern Air's catalog, but
> they
> > used to "specialise" in this type motor. This pancake type is not
> > generally a good match for a Sherline type setup...
> >
> > Alternatively, the "hybrid" type motors have a machined face and
> > generally look to be higher quality construction compared to the
> > pancake type. They usually have a die cast and machined

faceplate,

> > with a 1.500 inch "locating" boss inside the 4 bolt holes(23 size
> > motor).
> >
> > Anyway, there are two possible problems if you have these pancake
> > motors. One is that the rotor moves a large amount each step,

which

> > takes time. This will tend to make these motors slower overall,

IME.

> > Second is the concept of "matching" the motor to the load. We

often

> > get away with less than ideal choices here, but the sherline

setup

> > can lead to problems.
> > The leadscrew of a sherline has very little mass, and the 15

degree

> > motor will have more "ringing"(overshoot and settling to the
> > magnetically correct position) than a 1.8 degree motor, since the
> > rotor is moving farther with each step. Add these two factors
> > together, and you WILL have the type of problems you are
> experiencing.
> >
> > Now while I have assumed that you do have the pancake motors, the
> > problem can also be seen with the hybrid type motors, when used
> with
> > a sherline. If you have a double shaft motor, try "gripping" it
> > lightly to add some "drag" (damping) to its movement. If this
> > improves your situation, you can add friction to the system a few
> > ways. Tighten up the backlash nut adjustment. Add grease to the
> > leadscrew liberally. Adjust the plastic gibs on the axes for
> > a "tighter" fit. REDUCE the current to the motor (you may

be "over-

> > driving your setup. Are these 6 wire motors? Are you using
> the "full"
> > coil? If so, your amperage is set too high. Try switching the

motor

> > connections to 1/2 coil).
> >
> > Finally, there are devices sold for steppers to "damp" the

output.

> > One type is called a Lanchester dampener. These have a metal disk
> > spinning inside of a fluid filled plastic housing.
> >
> > If any of my assumptions are correct, you will have more problems
> > when the motor is alternating direction, than if it is driving

one

> > direction only.
> >
> > Lastly, what is your power supply voltage and amperage?
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> > Ballendo
> >
> >
> > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., "luisguillermo98"
> <luisguillermo98@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > I have camtronic controller and its deliver 2amp which is the
> same
> > > current as the motor.. so I do not understand why they run too
> > slow..
> > > if you try to run them faster the axis of the stepper will not
> > move,
> > > I think that is what people called "LOCKING UP"..
> > >
> > >