Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: CAD experiment entry

I'll venture a guess and say because milling machines don't have
automatic bar feeders. I imagine the lathe can run unattended spitting
out finished parts until the bar is finished.
For profit methods are often very different than what you would do in a
home shop.
Labor costs more than chips.

--


Ron Thompson
On the Beautiful Florida Space Coast, right beside the Kennedy Space Center, USA

Aw, I ain't that smart. I just know how to Google...

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On 12/15/2010 7:27 AM, William Thomas wrote:
>
> Hi Tim and All:
> THANKS FOR THE IMPUT OF THE CAD EXPERIMENT
> Tim, why don't you use a set of custom soft jaws and machine the
> nuts out of rectangle bars? This would eliminate the scrap from round
> to rectangle and half your milling with the live tools. Just a little
> harder on the start of cutoff.
> Note: I recently did this to taper turn some octagon gun barrels and
> it works!!!
>
> GOD'S BLESSINGS
>
>
> Bill Thomas
>
>
> On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 06:46:01 -0000, timgoldstein wrote
> >
> >
> > --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO%40yahoogroups.com>, "Peter Homann"
> <groups@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Brian,
> > >
> > > I think that this is why it is good to have a discussion here.
> There are
> > > all sorts of CAD/CAM users here so hopefully we will get some
> really good
> > > and honest reviews of various option.
> > > I've only progressed to creating 2d dxf files and feeding them through
> > > sheetcam to produce the separate processes.
> > >
> > > That's how I'd do the T-nuts. A separate layer for;
> > > 1. milling the height
> > > 2. drilling the hole
> > > 3. milling the relief
> > > 4. milling the outside rectangle
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Peter
> >
> > When I moved from using a 2D approach to using 3D models and CAM
> that uses solid models it was a revolution in productivity.
> >
> > This would be my approach if I had to do a t-nut in the mill.
> Obviously this is machinging technique and not CAD.
> >
> > 1 - Start with a piece of stock that is at least 1/8" taller than
> the finished nut.
> > 2 - Clamp in the vise on parallels with 1/8" being held.
> > 3 - Face off about .010" to give a clean and true surface.
> > 4 - Profile the entire part neck first and then the flange.
> > 5 - Spot drill with a 90 deg spot to a depth that will also create
> the chamfer in the hole.
> > 6 - Dill the hole.
> > 7 - Tap the hole. (OK so I am using a Haas with rigid tapping)
> > 8 - flip over and clamp on the neck with what will be the top
> surface of the flange on the top of the vise jaws.
> > 9 - Face off the top hat left from OP10 until the face intersects
> the already profiled flange walls.
> > 10 - Debur and tumble
> >
> > I reality we do it in the lathe with live tooling from a round bar.
> All the steps up through 8 are the same. Step 9 would be part off at
> the proper flange thickness and step 10 would be automatic bar pull
> and repeat. For the small sized Tuff nuts we make it is 75 - 140 nuts
> per 4 ft bar and 2 - 4 hours a bar. Far more efficient than using the
> mill and doing only a couple at a time.
> >
> > In the mill the top hat work holding approach is a valuable
> techinque. I was taught this by the first real machinist I hired.
> While never heard of it as a hobbyist, it is pretty much the standard
> approach in machine shops. A very useful technique regardless of what
> size machine you use.
> >
> > Tim Goldstein
> > A2Z Corp
> > A2Z CNC division
> > 3955 S Mariposa St
> > Englewood CO 80110
> > 720 833-9300
> > Toll Free 877 754-7465
> >
> > www.A2ZCorp.us/store
> > USA made accessories for desktop mills & lathes.
> > Specialized tools for the jewelry industry.
> >
> >
>
> --
> Open WebMail Project (http://openwebmail.org)
>
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>
>


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