Re: Printed Circuit Board Supplies

Ted,
A question comes to mind. As you have a laminator to look at, how difficult do you think it would be to make one ?

Then there is the question of cost of dry film. What are the minimum these (whoever you use ) will sell for in $... how much
film would that be ?

What's the shelf life of the film ? this would be important for me...

One thing I like about positive pre sensitized boards, I simply use Red Devil Lye as a developer and it's fast. Exposure for 1
minute under my UV light source and develop in Lye for about 30-45 seconds... I make transparencies on my LaserJet, I'm also
able to consistently get very fine lines <10 mill is not problem, anything seems pointless for my kind of work.

Hans Wedemeyer


Ted Robbins wrote:

> From: Ted Robbins <rtr@...>
>
> I, too, graduated to a dry film laminator. I used two of them, one for
> resist and one for solder mask and legend. But that is a pretty heavy
> investment for casual use. I have never tried to iron on the resist film,
> but would probably try that before I would use the liquid film again. I
> agree that the dry film sensitized boards are really tough. Solder mask
> and legend film seem as tough as screened inks.
>
> One nice thing about ferric cloride is that it dries to a pile of salty
> rust when you let the spent stuff evaporate. The problem is that you can't
> use it for plated through boards which use solder to prevent the etching of
> the copper you want to keep. It eats solder as well as copper.
>
> The thick film approach has a lot going for it, but again, it is probably
> not a practical process for most of us.
>
> Ted
>
> >From: Jon Elson <jmelson@...>
> >
> >
> >>The hot roll laminating of the dry film allows it to stick well to
> >boards that are less than
> >perfectly clean. I clean them as well as I can, but they still have a
> >few spots or slight
> >blemishes on them. The resist still sticks to the entire board, blemish
> >or not.
> >I don't ever want to use the KPR type process again, but I have no
> >qualms about
> >using dry film. The Fe2Cl3 etchant is pretty hard on skin, but I use
> >rubbermaid
>
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