fusing Gecko leads ( was Re: 2 Fried G210's in a single day :-(

Hi Alan,

are you advocating putting a fuse in each motor lead to a stepper
from each ouput line from a Gecko ?

Since the fuse would add resistance, would you need any compensation
for this ?

also, if you add a lamp in the line between the cap/rectifier and the
Gecko, aren't you reducing power ? the light would be neat, but
aren't you creating more of a drain than desired ?

Dave

--- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
> Hi Sean,
>
> H-bridge trouble shooting can be hard. a shorted motor lead can
take
> them out before you know it.
>
> I've posted this idea before on this list, but what you need to do
is
> put an automotive break lamp (12V) in series with the motor power
to the
> H-bridge (Gecko). The lamp will light up and limit the current to
the
> driver. ALWAYS use a fuze in EACH Gecko lead.
>
> HTH
>
> Alan KM6VV
>
>
> audiomaker2000 wrote:
> >
> > Man.. this day is *not* going well.
> >
> > I just finished wiring up my Brideport Boss with my new Gecko
210's.
> > I turn on the power.... Gecko 1 (X axis) LED glows dimmer than the
> > other two so I power off... re-check the connections and voltage
and
> > power back on.... The drive is gone... no LED, no nothing.
> > So, I figure I'll get back to that later and I start playing with
> > the Z and Y axes...all is fine. Then I decide to wire up the
limit
> > switches so I power off the machine, but decide to move the Z axis
> > which is very close to a limit for accessability so I power back
on
> > to move the axis and WOWOWOW... My arc welder makes less sparks!
> > I have no clue what is wrong here. My voltage is steady at 72vdc,
> > everything seems to be wired correctly and I cannot detect any
> > shorts. In any case, now the Z axis is cooked (literally), and it
> > had worked fine not two minutes earlier.
> >
> > I'm going broke at this rate. (well, I was already broke)
> >
> > Sean (whimper)