Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] fusing Gecko leads ( was Re: 2 Fried G210's in a single day :-(

Hi Dave,

Both the fuze and the lamp are in the +80V line (I'm running at about
40v) of the Gecko drive. It would add resistance in the POWER leads,
and thus the cap on the drive would be a good idea (as I'm told Mariss
recommended). This is for TEST purposes, and not a normal setup. When
I used it, I was surprised to see the lamp light brightly ONLY when
starting and accelerating. At full tilt, it barely glowed at all! I
didn't have a full load on the motor (it was still running "on the
bench"), but even trying to stop the motor did not make it brighten very
much. I suspect that the motor was still getting all the power it
wanted!

Alan KM6VV

dave_ace_me wrote:

>
> Hi Alan,
>
> are you advocating putting a fuse in each motor lead to a stepper
> from each ouput line from a Gecko ?
>
> Since the fuse would add resistance, would you need any compensation
> for this ?
>
> also, if you add a lamp in the line between the cap/rectifier and the
> Gecko, aren't you reducing power ? the light would be neat, but
> aren't you creating more of a drain than desired ?
>
> Dave
>
> --- In CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO@y..., Alan Marconett KM6VV <KM6VV@a...> wrote:
> > Hi Sean,
> >
> > H-bridge trouble shooting can be hard. a shorted motor lead can
> take
> > them out before you know it.
> >
> > I've posted this idea before on this list, but what you need to do
> is
> > put an automotive break lamp (12V) in series with the motor power
> to the
> > H-bridge (Gecko). The lamp will light up and limit the current to
> the
> > driver. ALWAYS use a fuze in EACH Gecko lead.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Alan KM6VV