Re: [CAD_CAM_EDM_DRO] Re: Moog makes it home

> My plan at this point is to remove the NC controls and hydraulic
> actuators, buy ballscrews, mount them for the axis controls, and for
> now put hand cranks on them. Then I can make whatever parts I need

The trick with this is that the Moog hasn't any mounts for screws at
all, making it necessary to use another mill for that. In which case, you'd
be better off making the servo mounts, parts, etc. from the get-go on
another machine, for reasons below.
I did what you're describing to my 'Moog'. As a manual with generic
Bridgeport retrofit screws, the X-axis crank moves in opposite directions to
a standard Bridgeport. This has disconcerting results if forgotten at
critical points. (This is because the nut moves with the table, not the
screw, as in a Bridgeport)
Also, there isn't a manual table clamp, and the table will shift when
you let go of the handle. (Both with ACME and ballscrews) The clamp is under
the cover on the back edge of the table. It's a hydraulic clamp that clamps
to the long spring steel strip attached to the table.
I don't recall if the Moog head has a way to manually move up and down.
I believe it doesn't. This would be a real killer when trying to drill, etc.
I replaced the Moog head and ram with a 'T' ram, 8" extension, and
Bridgeport Series 1 head. I also replaced the knee screw w/ a ballscrew, and
drive it via belt through an opening cut in the side of the knee. It
definitely requires a hefty counterbalance method when done this way.
That said, the Moog gives very flat cuts, as the table never leaves the
saddle more than 8" or so. I get 35" of X travel, 11" of Y, 10" in Z from
mine CNC'd. There'd be 37.5" in X if I took off the DRO, but I like to check
the CNC positioning. The DRO isn't OEM, btw.
Free is the right price, but I would not recommend anyone buy one to
retrofit. Not a friend, anyway. :)

Hope this helps,

- Keith Rumley